Buying a bike

The following is a very general guide for those just starting out with cycling. It cannot replace good advice from other riders or, even better, a good cycle retailer.  The responsbility is on the reader to make themselves aware of all relevant statutory requirements and that the information contained within the site is not intended to be anything other than generic and basic information guide.

Where should I buy my bike?

If you purchase a bike under $500 you may find that parts wear out quite quickly. Your gears may not shift and your tires may puncture more frequently. At the other end of the spectrum a very expensive bike will have parts that will last longer, but when you do need to replace items, the parts will be more expensive. Department stores and warehouses can save you money, but the service is not usually as good as a bike shop.

Bike shops can:

• offer you large range of bikes at different prices,
• give you advice on a bike that will best meet your needs,
• swap parts around to make the bike suit you better,
• help you to fix any problems.

Many bikes shops can also:

• arrange regular group rides,
• run courses (riding skills, bike repair, touring advice),
• can give you free advice on places to ride (good local tracks, quiet roads),
• introduce to clubs or other people with similar interests,
• let you know about local and national events,
• help you to find apparel and cycling accessories.

Used bikes bought through classified ads or on the web can be a good deal, but there are dangers when buying second-hand. The bike might have been thrashed and could need expensive repairs. If you buy a second-hand bike that turns out to have been stolen, you could lose the bike and your money. It's not a good idea to buy a bike without seeing it and riding it first.

What do you want to do?

As a guide...

Off-road refers to mountain biking on unsealed tracks. Obviously the categories overlap. The point is to decide what you are likely to do most. The further you head towards the right hand side, the more specialised the bike is likely to be, the less able you will be able to use it for other things, and the more expensive it will be. But then, that might not trouble you.

Deciding what you want to do will dictate what you will need. You can get a fully rigid (no suspension) frame with carriers, water bottle mounts and a longer wheel base to allow you to carry panniers comfortably. These bikes tend to have larger wheel rims with larger tyres for greater comfort.  Seats are also important - make sure it has one suitable for longer, more relaxed riding.

Road or racing bikes tend to have narrower rims and tyres, ‘drop' handle bars, and are built for speed rather than carrying loads. Things to watch for: when buying tyre tubes, make sure the tube size is the correct one for the tyre, as road tyres are bigger in diameter than mountain bike tyres. Also check that the valve fits through the hole in the rim, as some rims can only take the slimmer valves.

Mountain bikes have flat handle bars and generally smaller diameter wheels with fatter rims and hence fatter tyres. They may or may not have suspension.

As many people commute or tour on a mountain bike style of machine, there is a growth in hybrid machines. Generally, these will not deal with hard off-road riding, but are perfectly fine dealing with bumpier roads or cycle ways, or even unpaved four-wheel-drive tracks. They are not as fast as road bikes, but are more robust, and can more easily accommodate carriers and pannier bags.

Beyond the basics, there are also BMX bikes, recumbents, custom-style cruisers, folding bikes and various trick bikes - including seatless varieties - but these are not considered here. For these kind of bikes, you are best to talk to those who use them to get an idea of what would suit you best.

In general, there is no ‘correct' bike for a particular use - just those bikes most people tend to end up using.

Ask for advice

...from other riders

Next, where possible, talk to others already doing the kind of riding you want to do. Clubs are often good sources of information - mountain bike, road and BMX.

...and from bike shops

Nothing beats an experienced retailer for advice. You do not have to buy straight away - in fact, it is best to visit two or three bike shops to get a range of opinions before buying. Ask around other riders for advice on what is a good shop. A good shop will spend time working out what you want before fitting a bike to you. Be wary of those who want to fit you to a bike they happen to have in stock.

There are also a range of bike brands and associated types. For an idea, visit BikeNZ's supporting organisations' websites  www.giantbikes.net,  www.avantibikes.com, www.gtbikes.com, www.michelin.com   

Make sure it fits

Speaking of fitting, here is a general guide. Straddle the bike and put your feet flat on the floor. For a road bike, you should have one to two inches of clearance between the top bar of the bike and your crotch. If it is a mountain bike for off-road use, there should be three to four inches clearance.

However, note that frame designs vary, particularly for mountain bikes, and so this general rule can be broken. The most important thing is that you have control over the bike, and when stopping, can put your foot down and hold the bike comfortably. For off-road use, it is really only possible to fully assess your bike when you get off-road - and it is here that a good bike shop will be able to tell you whether what you are getting is likely to be okay for your style of riding.

Also very important is that you do not feel too stretched or cramped reaching the handle-bars, and your hands can grip the brakes comfortably. Good quality brake levers should be adjustable to deal with different hand sizes. When riding, your leg should never be fully stretched out - generally, at the bottom of a cycle-stroke, your knee should have a 15 degree or so bend.

Again, a good bike shop should be able to fit you to a bike. Always take it for a test ride, and do not be afraid to ask for things to be altered to make it fit better. Remember seats can be shifted up or down, backwards and forwards; and handle bars can be also be shifted up or down, or the angle of tilt changed.

Fitting is probably the most important thing to do with a bike. The difference of a few centimetres in length, height, or seat position can make the different between an enjoyable ride and an uncomfortable one. Most people underestimate how important fitting is. In the end, if it does not fit well, you will be unlikely to use it.

You get what you pay for

Bike prices are currently very good for the consumer, largely due to the strong New Zealand dollar, but also because there are more people buying bikes locally and internationally. This means manufacturers can offer better bikes at lower prices because of the efficiencies associated with sales volume.

However, as always, you get what you pay for. If you buy at the lower end, you might be trading off reliability and lower maintenance costs for lower initial price. For example, many cheaper full suspension mountain bikes might look great, but will not last as long if taken off-road. They are designed for café-hopping in town rather than racing down off-road single-tracks with jumps.  As a general rule, the more moving parts (such as additional suspension on the rear, with associated pivot-points) the more there is to go wrong.

In contrast, if you pay a little more, the quality can increase noticeably, and all those moving bits will last a lot longer. Alternatively, to keep costs down, go for simplicity. Some of the most comfortable and functional bikes are those ridden by cycle couriers - and they are perfect examples of less-being-more.

Maintenance/Cleaning

While this is a bike buying guide, please be aware that bikes need looking after. The simplest things to remember are: oil the chain (using chain oil, not 3-in-1 from the hardware store); do not leave bikes in the rain (of all the things that kill bikes, this is probably the most common); if you must use bikes on sand or near salt water (and it is best not to do so), please clean them afterwards. While many (if not most) now have aluminium frames, everything else can still rust, including bearings.

Cleaning bikes should be done with a soft brush, some gentle degreaser, and low-flowing water from a hose. Do not use high pressure hoses, as the water will get into the bearings. Cleaning bikes regularly, and oiling the moving bits is vital. You do not need much oil - just enough to create a skin of lubricant. Most people initially over-lube things like chains. This wastes oil, as much of it will end up on the bike rims and frame as it flicks off the chain. When you oil, place a little on each link as you slowly spin the chain, then gently wipe the excess off with a rag.

When you first buy a bike, the shop will generally include free maintenance checks, and should give you an idea of what maintenance you should be doing yourself.

You can also check out our maintenance wikis

Bounce-ability

Further to the suspension issue, for off-road riding, good front-fork suspension is considered a requirement by most people. It helps absorb bumps, of course, but can also improve handling in rough terrain. There are the hardy ‘retro' souls who happily head out on rigid (no suspension) frames - but remember it is your joints and body generally absorbing all the bounces if you take this option.

Rear suspension is generally considered beneficial, but it is not a requirement for off-road riding - for most people staring out, ‘hard-tails' (front suspension only) are more than adequate. As a rule, good rear suspension bikes will be significantly more expensive.

Note that for commuting, suspension is generally not a requirement, and avoiding paying for suspension means you should get more value for money in the frame quality, gears and brakes. Cheap front suspension may, in the long run, be worse than no suspension at all.

Accessories

Locks

Cable locks can be easily cut through. Instead, choose a D lock and use it to attach your bike to something strong like a steel post. D locks cost between $30 and $180. Try to park your bike in places where there are lots of people. It's harder for someone to steal your bike in the main street than in an alley at the back of a building.

Gloves

Most cyclists wear gloves to protect their hands. There are different types of gloves for cycling rough tracks or riding to the shops. Gloves also help you to keep your hands in contact with the bike especially once you start to sweat. Gloves cost between $20 and $60.

Water bottles

Most bikes have a water bottle cage on the frame. Sports drinks from the shops usually fit into these holders well. You can also buy an additional water bottle cage from bike shops (most bikes can carry at least 2 bottles).

Windbreaker

Take a windbreaker on every long ride to protect yourself from cold and windy weather. These are made of lightweight nylon and can be packed down really small.

Cycle computers

Cycle computers display distance and speed and can help you figure out where you are and how far you have to go. Some computers also display the time and your heart rate. To prevent a cycle computer from falling off during your ride, use a twisty tie to secure it to its mount on the handlebars.

Apparel

You don't have to wear a tight lycra one piece racing suit when you ride. There is an ever growing range of urban bike wear that looks just as good walking around town as riding around.

Several New Zealand companies produce excellent urban apparel and more bike shops are starting to carry apparel for cyclists that don't want to look like a mobile billboard. Look out for ‘shy shorts' (3/4 length board shorts that have a padded seat) and loose fitting bike tops.

Is it legal?

You can check the legal requirements for bike riding via www.landtransport.govt.nz. The following should not be used as a full legal guide, but gives some basics:

• For night riding: a steady or flashing white or amber forward-facing light and a steady or flashing rear-facing red light. Both must visible from at least 100 metres. If you use two headlamps, only one may be flashing. You must also have either pedal reflectors or reflective clothing.

• Good working brakes on the front and back wheels, or, if the bike was made on or before 1 Jan 1988, a good brake on the back wheel.

• A helmet. In this regard, make sure it fits well. It must not be loose, but also must not be uncomfortable to wear. Try a few out to see what feels right. Like bikes, different makes vary greatly.

Visit the Commerce Commission website for further details on bicycle safety standards, and in particular the AS/NZS 1927:1998 : Pedal bicycles - Safety requirements.