Bike Set-up

Bike Set Up

Incorrect frame size and poor bike fit will lead to inefficient energy use and can result in positioning problems and incorrect pedalling technique. Furthermore, being properly set-up on your bike will prevent injury or aching in the knees, back or shoulders.

There are many techniques to achieve correct Bike Set Up.  Below is our recommendation for an easy step by step process to help guide you along. However, local bike shops often offer a number of bike fits from a quick one-on one session, to fully computerised set-ups.

Remember that we are all different and some slight adjustments may be required to account for long back, short legs, lack of flexibility etc.

You can also download the Bike Fit document (with illustrations).

Step 1 - Frame Size
When buying a bike (frame) an experienced cycle dealer should be able to help you purchase a bike frame that is appropriate for you body shape and cycling needs.

1. Have the rider stand straight without shoes on and measure from the riders inside leg to the floor
2. Calculate the bike frame size by using the below formula

Eg: 80cm inside leg measurement x 0.65 = 52 cm
You should look for a frame that is 52cm from the seat post to the bottom bracket (centre crank)

Step 2 - Saddle Height & Angle: 

Seat Height - Having your seat post to high or to low may results in a loss of power and energy by over stretching or restricting the leg muscles.

There are several methods you can use but below is a initial set up that is a very easy and practical to follow.

1. Sit on the saddle with your cycling shoes on.
2. Put you heel on the lower pedal 
3. Line the crank arms up so they are parallel and with the seat tube
4. Adjust the seat so that the leg is almost fully extended

A second method is to take the riders inside leg measurements and multiply it by 0.885.  This method gives you the measurement (parallel to the sear tube) from the centre of the crank (bottom bracket) to the top of the seat.

Step 3 - Seat Position:

1. Have the rider on the bike either with the bike on a wind trainer or near a wall (to lean against) Make sure the ground is level
2. Slowly pedal until the cranks are horizontal to the ground (one foot at 3 O'clock and the other at 9 O'clock) Feed should be parallel to the ground
3. Cyclist should be holding onto the drops of the handle bars
4. Drop a plumb bob (a piece of string with a heavy object on the bottom) from the tibial tuberosity on the knee down between the crank and frame (see diagram)
5. Adjust the seat forwards or backwards so the plump line falls directly through or just behind the centre of the pedal axis
6. Make sure the saddle is close to level (probably best with the nose 3 to 4mm lower than the back) If it is sloping down (nose down) you will always be sliding forward.   If it is sloping up (i.e. nose high) you may end up with discomfort or numbness in the crotch)

 Step 4 - Shoe and Cleat position: 

The purpose of cycling shoes is to maximise the drive through the pedal creating a stronger and smoother transfer of energy from foot to pedal.

However the natural style of the rider will also affect this.

1. Put your shoe on and mark the ball of your foot on the side of the shoe with a pen.
2. Put the pedal in the 3 o'clock position and put your foot on the pedal.
3. Check that the pedal is level,then adjust the cleat so that the ball of you foot is over the pedal axle. The cleat (shoe plate that attached to the pedal) should be placed over the ball of the foot (see diagram)
4. Feet should be parallel to the cranks, however some people have feet that turn naturally in or out, so adjustments should be made to the cleats to accommodate the natural foot positioning eg: turning in or out (If the foot is too far forward then the pedal will tend to rotate causing the foot to end up in a toe down position and thus driving the rider forward on their seat)

Knee, hip pains and muscle injuries are often caused by shoes and cleats being incorrectly set up.  The exact position will be determined by your individual pedalling style, but this is a good start.

Stem Height

Your handlebars stem should be as low as possible, this is normally around 5-8 cm below the height of the seat (riders flexibility in the lower back, hips and hamstrings will limit how low you can comfortably set your handlebar stem.

Handle Bars

They should be positioned so the bottom part of the bar is angled slightly about 5 -10 degrees lower than the middle of the flat part of the bar.

This places the wrists in a more natural position when holding the drop bars.  Make sure that you can reach the break levers easily.